1836 – third day of eleventh expedition

We want proper, hot breakfast. So we return to Ilūkste, but sadly diner “Kafejnīca” is closed yet again. We shop in grocery store Vesko and have a picnic.

Our today’s route takes us to nature reserve park “Dvietes Paliene”. This 5000 ha big nature park is made with a purpose to preserve floodplain. It’s a unique nesting and meeting point for migrating birds. It’s a shelter for rare and protected species of animals and plants. This is the biggest floodplains around Daugava. The water level can rise for more than 6 meters, putting most of the meadow under water. During heavy flood, the Dvietes valley gets flooded in more than 20 km length, saving, Līvāni and Jēkabpils, nearest cities from flooding. Brought here several years ago, wild horses Konik Polsky and wild cows Highlander feel very good in here. A man doesn’t interfere with life of those animals. Konik Polsky are the closest species to the primeval horses. They feel really free here as they are not afraid from humans. Mares are especially friendly and curious, seems they feel the energy of Kurbads, mare son.

Local employees from tourism information center shows us local archaelogical trophies and are proud that Dvietes valley is one of the oldest inhabited places in Latvia – first settlers arrived here at the end of the ice age, 11 thousand years ago. We swallow all this information with a degustation of beaver’s gland infusion. It’s a famous fold medicine against 1000 diseases! We can’t refuse the owner – we try it. The specific aroma of the infusion stays in our throats all day.

Every gardener in Latvia has always wanted to grow an exotic Souther fruit tree or berry bush. It’s doable in greenhouse, but not outside where the local climate is too rough. So the owner of Apsītes house, Pauls Sukatnieks dedicated all his life so Latvians wouldn’t have to eat cabbage all the time. The magnificent breeder Pauls Sukatnieks is well-known worldwide for several breeds of grapes resistant to cold. Thanks to him, Latvia in Guinness Record book is mentioned as a northernmost country that grows grapes.

I am leading our group to small gravel roads and suddenly in the map I see that our path leads next to a house named Moči(Motorcycles in Latvian). Zooming in, I see that I am not mistaken we really are riding next to a Moči house. It’s a small miracle for us. Few kilometers later, we have arrived and go into backyard. Owners of the house are a bit confused seeing us. While we get off our helmets, they start to understand why we are here. We can see the smile on owners face: “Hmm, you are those who , you know are on TV! I know you! Wife, go make some coffee!”. At the next moment, we are sitting at the table, and both parties are surprised . The name of the house is for more than 100 years and no one really knows why. But the story from a family is well known – heritage from parents, marriage, kids grow up, went to a city, won’t come back… What do we three know about country life? Nothing! For memory we leave polaroid photo. It’s a great Renārs’ idea. We say a warm goodbye!

Few moments before dark, we arrive at Suseja. The bee is over and the choirs are getting ready for a performance. Big soup is getting prepared. Renārs has work duties tomorrow, that’s why we will not continue tomorrow. We will pack  and head back after the concert. I have to admit that those 3 bikes that we packed in our van are too muddy to be called motorcycles. 

Meanwhile, members of Sola choir,lead by choirmaster Kaspars Ādamsons, take their positions on an improvised stage. Choir starts singing next to a fire. Night, forest, fire, stage, fantastic acoustics and sound – it all has a suggestive impact on us, listeners. We are less in numbers than choir members. We look at each other from time  to time and just can’t believe the vibrating, fairytale-like sound! Choir gets off the stage and get around audience, forming a circle. We close our eyes and enjoy  the 3d sound. We are enchanted!

For more than half an hour we drive in silence. We have a feeling that this was a miracle. We are thankful to all those people who made this possible.

Thank you!